Akoori

Everyone has their own way of doing scrambled eggs. Akoori is the Parsi way. The Parsis are Iranians who, fleeing persecution, arrived in India in AD 936. Their mantra is “good thoughts, good words, and good deeds,” but they might as well tag on “good eggs” because they know a thing or two about them. This dish has been a Sunday-morning family favorite for years. It’s especially loved by Dad, as the short list of pantry ingredients means he never has to pop out to grab anything. ...

April 8, 2025

Chapatis

Makes 16 (enough for 4 people) Ingredients 3¼ cups chapati flour, or 1¾ cups whole-wheat and 1¾ cups all-purpose white flour (plus extra to dust) ½ teaspoon salt canola oil 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons hot water Instructions Put the flour into a bowl, add the salt, and mix together. Make a well in the middle, add 3 tablespoons of oil, and mix, using your fingers, until it resembles fine breadcrumbs. Pour in 1 cup of the water, then add the rest little by little—you may not need it all—until you can knead the mixture into a soft and pliable dough, which will take 6 to 8 minutes. ...

April 8, 2025

Eggplant and Pea Curry (Baingan Matar Masala)

When I got back from my honeymoon, I spoke to my grandma. “Are you happily married?” she asked. “Yes, Grandma.” “What have you eaten today?” “Eggplant and pea curry and chapatis.” “Good. If you’re eating properly, you must be happy.” Serves 4 as a main course Ingredients 5 tablespoons canola oil 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 2 large onions, finely chopped 6 cloves of garlic, crushed 4 large ripe tomatoes, chopped 1½ tablespoons tomato paste 1½ level teaspoons salt 1¼ teaspoons ground red chile ½ teaspoon ground turmeric 1 teaspoon sugar 4 medium eggplants (2¼ pounds), chopped into 1½-inch cubes ½ cup peas (fresh or defrosted) Instructions Put the oil into a wide-bottomed lidded pan over medium heat. Once hot, add the cumin seeds, stir for 30 seconds, then add the onions. ...

April 8, 2025

Gujarati Dal with Peanuts + Star Anise

This dal is my and every other Gujarati’s taste of home. One spoonful and I am transported. It has a more complex taste than most dals due to the subtle jabs of star anise, curry leaves, and lemon, all rounded off with the sweetness of honey. Because of the time it takes to soak and cook toor lentils, this is more of a weekend dish in our house, although a daily staple across Gujarat. ...

April 8, 2025

Mushroom and Pea Kheema (Masaruma Matar ka Keema)

My father lives just on the edge of what we consider to be normal. He prefers confectioners’ sugar in his tea, has the buttons of his back pockets removed (for fear of damaging his car upholstery), and keeps a logbook of when he waters the plants. One time, he accidentally spread mushroom compost over the lawn and we ate mushrooms in every conceivable way for months. If you find yourself in a similar situation, this is a satisfying and delicious way to make use of them. ...

April 8, 2025

New Potato + Chickpea Chaat (Aloo Chana Chaat)

The flavors in this incredibly popular Indian street-side snack will dance in your mouth. Buttery potatoes wrap around the chickpeas in an open embrace. They’re followed by a flourish of shallots, a smouldering slick of date and tamarind chutney, and the crunch of sev. Beats a bag of potato chips any day. Although tamarind and sev (chickpea noodles) might seem hard to find, they are nearly always available in the Asian section of big supermarkets. Look for thin or “nylon” sev—but if you can’t find any, a little Bombay mix works a treat. ...

April 8, 2025

Sweet Potato Vindaloo

In England, the vindaloo is an ear-tinglingly hot curry, but it wasn’t always that way. It started life as vinho e alhos, a popular Portuguese dish that made its way over to Goa with Portuguese explorers in the 1500s. Traditionally a wine and garlic stew, it was transformed into the modern-day dish using white wine vinegar and garlic, combined with a warming garam masala of pepper, cloves, and cinnamon. In this recipe, the sweet potato works really well with the spices and tomato to make a sweet, sour, and pungent curry. And yes, it’s hot, but not mind-blowingly so. ...

April 8, 2025